Lake Superior Circle Tour

The End

Finished the last day dodging the numerous thunderstorms that rolled through the area. The road was wet from all the passing storms but luckily I had fenders on the bike so I stayed reasonably dry. I had a family from Saute Ste Marie (who I met me the day before at a restaurant) pass me again going the opposite way - they turned around and stopped to find out the name of my blog. (Hope you enjoy the read). Rolled into St. Ignace around 3:00 pm parked the bike and went to the bar for beer!

The Griffis picked me up at the The Driftwood Inn and we promptly started the celebration! All and all it was a wonderful time and the trip has given me new appreciation for this region. Already starting to think about next year's adventure which will be Lake Huron and the Georgian Bay in late July. Anyone interested in doing any or all of the ride let me know.

My next adventure starts September 8th, with the Not Dead Yet gang to ride from PDX to and around Crater Lake. I'll start a new blog for those who want to follow what five over 50 guys can do besides sit and watch TV.

Jeff Reaves
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Sunset on Superior

Only a few miles from the finish!

My camp is just off the beach. Yes I went in water.

Barrell house

The structure uses the same construction methods as real barrels, just on a larger scale. On the Nat'l Historic Register.

Land, lake and storm on Lake Michigan

Day 18- 105 miles

Rode strong today on mostly flat secondary roads. The wind was favorable for most of the ride. Got to my destination of Paradise of 75 miles but the legs and heart said let's keep going! Road along the shore most of the afternoon and pulled into Bay View Campground around 6:00pm. Currently I'm about 20 miles west of Sault St. Marie , my starting point of the ride. Tomorrow once I hit Mackinac Trail I'll turn south to St Ignace. There my brother-in-law will meet me for many beers and any other trouble be can find.

The campground tonight is the best one of the entire trip. Although there are no showers, Lake Superior is at the foot of my tent! With road grime and salt caked to my body after the long miles and sun, I plunged into the water and enjoyed a reasonably warm lake and 2 ft surf. Ahhh feel like a new man.

Since I'm pretty much done with the ride here are some facts of the ride:

Total days riding 17 plus 1 rest day.
Total miles 1,360 (average 80 mi/day
Camped 14 out of 18 days
Motel for 4 days
Two - 1/2 days of rain
Ate 30 packages of Quaker Oats
Drank 16 cups of coffee at camp
Average beers per night 2 - I think?!
Ice cream/ Blizzards -6
Power bars - 16
Calories burned per day 4,500
Burned 22 oz of stove fuel
1 worn out tire and zero flats
Times had to get up a pee at night- 2
Bear and moose sighting - 0 (bummer)
Best moment - talking in camp at night
Worst moment - Wally's World (Eagle Adventures)

Jeff Reaves
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Grand Sable sand dunes

Loggers had dry flumes along these cliffs to get the logs into the lake for transport. Log would go from top to bottom in less than 10 seconds.

Day 17 - 55 miles of rain

Today's ride to Grand Marais was fairly flat along the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Only downer was the thunder storms that rolled through all- day. It's hard to outrun a storm! But I tried. Found a great pub in GM which has roots in Oregon. The Lake Superior Brewing Company's owners also live outside of Eugene, OR on a
vineyard and are promoting their wine in the UP. The name is Sarver Winery.

Grand Marais has a nice harbor and is the jump-off point for those hiking the Nat'l Lakeshore. This area had a very large Pinery and huge log rafts use to line the shores. In the winter this area is snowmobile central!

Jeff Reaves
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Day 16 - day of rest

No bike riding today! Traded the bike for a kayak. The plan was to paddle to Pictured Rocks but the winds had created 2 to 4 ft surf at the shore which made approaching the sandstone cliffs too dangerous. With a group of 20 other kayakers we crossed the channel to Grand Island, where the waters were protected. The shoreline was full of sandstone caves and cliffs of 40 to 60 ft. All and all a great day. After 6 hours of paddling had to take a long deserved dip in the lake!

Jeff Reaves
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Iron ore dock in Marquette

USA ski hall of fame

Looking for a lift to the top of the hill!

Day 15 - 78 miles of beachfront

Left Van Ripen with the expectation of rain but it never came. Had a great ride into Marquette with a stop at the USA ski and snowboard hall of fame. It wasn't open until 10 am but since I was on my bike I was allowed to tour the facility at 8:30 am. The hall of fame is locates in Ishpeming (just outside of Marquette), because this is where skiing was first brought to the USA by the Swedes and Nords. Ski jumping also started here and the old photos were fun to see.

Marquette is a wonderful town with a well developed downtown and waterfront. The road out of Marquette to Munising is along the National Seashore park and is gorgeous. People where out enjoying the weather - sunbathing and swimming.

I had met two cyclist early in the day who were also circling Lake Superior. We talked briefly but I was in the zone and outpaced them early. I stopped for breakfast and they continued on- but by 2 pm I had caught them. We rode together in the afternoon and enjoyed the ride into Munising. Parted company at the Dairy Queen where I enjoyed a Cookie Dough Blizzard. They rode to a camp 5 miles outside of town.

At DQ I met two grandparents (in their 60's) each with their own motorcycles doing a three day tour with their 6 and 8 yr old grandkids on the back of their bikes! How cool is that! Biggest issue was to make sure kids did not fall asleep on the bike.

I decided to find a motel since I'm staying over to kayak tomorrow. I've signed up for 7 hr kayak along Pictured Rocks - should be fun!l

Jeff Reaves
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Day 14 - 101 miles

With 88 miles yesterday, I didn't know if I could make it the 100 miles from last nights camp to Van Riper State Park but the legs were up for the challenge. Had a good morning ride to Houghton (25 miles) and Breakfast. Couldnt beleive I got 2 eggs, 1 sausage, 2 bacon and 2 slices of toast fir $3.50!

Houghton, until the 1920's was a hugh copper mining town but like most things in this neck of the woods the town has had to reinvent itself into tourist interests. Based on my last two days, this area has to have the fewest teeth per capita and the most rusted out pickups!

The ride out of Houghton was along Grand Traverse Bay (some of you may also know there is a second Grand Traverse Bay near Traverse City) was flat and beautiful. Stopped at a rodeside stand to buy bananas, wild blueberries and tomatoes - when you bike its all about the food.

The road turned inland with a serious 10 mile climb and head winds. At this point I did not expect to go a 100 miles, especially at my meager pace of 10 mph. The road finally leveled out and the wind shifted. Rolled into camp and started my routine of setup, cleanup and eatup. Had a steady flow of visitors tonight who all biked and wanted details of my trip and we exchanged bike tales. Looking forward to Marquette and Munising tomorrow.

Jeff Reaves
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Bridge over Keweenaw portage canal

Photo taken from Houghton with City of Hancock on opposite shore. Quincy Copper mine on the hilltop.

Bio-mass furnaces

These furnaces provide heat and hot water for an adjacent 40,000 sq ft resort and restaurant. This includes winter which is their peak season.

Day 13 - 85 miles wind, rain & sun

On the road by 10:00am. With the thought of trying to catch the recumbents that rode by at 9:00am, I put the legs into motion. With a tailwind and flat terrain I was clicking along at 20 to 25 mph. Needless to say the first 50 miles zipped by and I was feeling jazzed. Never saw my pursuit as the miles continued to roll. Thunderheads developed to the north and soon descended upon me with head winds and rain. The good thing it only lasted about an hour and then the sun shone for the rest of my ride. Rolled into Twin Lakes campground dry and satisfied with the days ride.

Also had my first patsy if the trip! For those not familiar with this wonderful food group check out this website.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pasty

Jeff Reaves
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Day 13

Got a new tire this morning and ready to hit the road (10:00am). On my walk to the bike shop, six recumbents rolled by- I felt like a little kid looking out the window at other kids playing but I'm sick and can't go out and play!! Maybe I catch them toward evening.

Jeff Reaves
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Brownstones of Washburn

Washburn is famous for it's Brownstone quarries.

Worn out tire

Day 12 - 55miles and a day to clean

Hung by the fire pit with Sue and Jim until 10:30 and slept well. Hearing the rumble of thunder I rose early 5:30am to avoid packing in the rain. Rode 10 miles into Ashland and had a good breakfast and banter with the patrons. From breakfast and a night around the fire- Ashland, Washburn and Bayfield have a lot going on in the summer and winter months. The cold temps freeze over the bay and sets up great for over 150 ice shacks, auto-racing on the ice and what seems really cool is an illuminarie lined x-country trail from Ashland to Bayfield (15 miles) across the ice. Also with the frozen bay, access to the lakeside caves are possible. After breakfast pedaled into Ironwood, MI! I stopped for a smoothie to celebrate my return to MI and discovered my rear tire has wore out! This seems way premature since I put it on just at the start of the trip. Alas the only bike store is not open on Sunday, so I decided to make the afternoon about cleaning the bike and stinky clothes. I'll hit the bike store in the morning and resume my travels tomorrow.

Jeff Reaves
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A by gone era

An abandon school and merry-go-round. Imagine the fun the kids had on this contraption!

Rolling with big boys!

Day 11 - 88 miles of country roads

Today reminded me of the stock market - a lot of up and down. The base elevation of Lake Superior is about 600 ft. I would climb to 950 ft then descend back to the lake. This happened on at regular 20 mile intervals. The route was along the shore but rarely did I see the BIG PUDDLE. Instead the scenic views were farmland. I was treated to a fish fry at the town of Cornucopia. The whole town was there! Rolled on to Bayfield which has a nice marina and the town is the port for day sails to the Apostle Island which is part of the National Parks. The fish fry caught up with me - but luckily i was close the head! The day ends at Washburn Muncipal Park and Campground. With the summer in full swing campsites and hotels are at a premuim. Needless to say the campground was full but as I circled thru the CG for the second time - a couple offered to share their campground. This is what I love about these trips - the kindness of others! Sue and Jim live in southern Wisconson. They are big canoer's and come up here often to paddle the rivers.

Jeff Reaves
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Brownstone in Duluth

My bath tub today

The Amnicon River - looks like rootbeer!

In Packer Land

Day 10 - 60 easy miles

First off yesterday's post as day 7 was in error (day 9)- being retired it is hard to keep track! Last night I slept to the sound of gentle rain but was awoken at 6:00 am by the diesel truck next to my tent! The day threatened rain but it never really developed. Pedaled 25 miles into Duluth and had breakfast at Perkins - I knew I found the perfect spot when everyone there had a waist of at least 48. Food was massive and enjoyed greatly. Definitely hear the Minnesota accents - "donnn't you nowww" . Finding my way through Duluth was a puzzle ( as is the case with most big cities). But I enjoyed the stately houses and brownstone buildings in downtown. I felt Duluth was a much more refined city than Thunder Bay ( even though TB is larger). Arrived at Amnicon State park in Wisconsin around 4:00 pm. No campsites were available but I had called ahead and they set me up in a quite wooded area, next to a small branch stream of the Amnicon river. The camp has no showers, so it was a quick dip in the river which has the color of root beer! But water was warm and inviting. Had diner at a local bar which is full is Green Bay Packer memorabilia, including Favre which I thought had all been burned! Tomorrow the bar is sponsoring " Biker for Boobs" which supports breast cancer research. I think it would be fun to show up in the recumbent!

Jeff Reaves
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Day 10 morning

Starting out a little foggy and light rain

Shoreline Cliffs

Notice how clear the water is along the shoreline.

Water fall

Lots of falls today. The rivers on the north side of the lake are short and steep

Moon at Two Bay

Day 7 - 90 miles of headwinds

My camp pal Carl ( former Kayak guide) and I share smoked herring and a few beers at the local pub and chewed the fat until 10:30pm. Up and on the road by 8:30am. A stiff Wind was straight in my face after the first hour. The road shoulder for the 1st 40 miles was crumbled and had expansion cracks every 20 ft! Wind and road made for a day of work and not much time for sight seeing. Food stops were good, with Betsy Pie shop being tops! Blueberry with ice cream was great. Spending the night in Two Bay just north of Duluth. My first choice of campground was Split Rock Lighthouse but it was full by the time I got there at 4:00pm. That resulted in an extra 20 miles. But that will give me more time in Duluth.

Biggest news for the day-
Bikes through two tunnels
Can now see the south side of the lake! - tomorrow is the big turn to the east!

Jeff Reaves
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Basalt cliffs and rolled hay

Just outside of Thunder Bay

Day 8 - 85 miles back in the USA

Yesterday was an easy 30 miles and a rest in a Travel Lodge Hotel. In general my campsites have been cleaner. The carpet in my room was in definite need if repair. With only 30 miles for the day, I skipped dinner and opted for Death Wish III and IV. After two beers and Charles kicking ass I was out by 9:00pm! Ohh the softness of a bed and pillow.

The ride out of town was tricky since HWY 61 was closed to bikes and peds. Thank goodness for the map function on the iPhone to help me navigate another route. The detour proved to be a pleasant ride in the farmland around Thunder Bay. The legs today just didn't have their normal zip and every turn of the crank was a chore. I made the 40 miles to the border by noon and really wasn't looking forward to the next 50 miles.

Right after the border crossing was a climb up Josephine Mountain. The strenuous climb finally got the legs to WAKE UP and even with a steady headwind I felt much stronger. Of course the Chesapeake Pie Company at the bottom of Josephine Mt helped with a roast beef sandwich, coke and cherry pie with ice cream - nice!!!

Rolled into Grand Marais, which has a wonderful little downtown and harbor for sailors on the lake. I'm stay in a city run campground which is pretty well run and has a nice view of the harbor. My neighbor Carl (on motorbike) is a former kayak guide in these parts - so he is giving me some great information on stops along my route.

Jeff Reaves
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Thunder Bay

TB is the largest city on Lake Superior but has seen tough times as grain and timber exports have been down.

Day 7 - only 30 miles to TB

Arrived in Thunder Bay by noon and stopped at a neighborhood coffee shop to have a great latte'. Oh the little things in life when you on the road. Was able to ride off- highway today which was a great change from the 1 foot shoulder and Semi's. Will most likely look for a motel tonight on the south side of TB. Hoping to not repeat yesterday's adventure. Haven't done the math but I think I'm 1/3 of the way around the lake. Tomorrow I'm back in the States (Minnesota).

Jeff Reaves
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Canadian Shield falling in LS

Day 6 - 108 miles!

Today was suppose to be an easy 60 mile day. The started with my normal routine of oatmeal and coffee. I broke camp and spent 20 minutes talking with a retired college prof from Thunder Bay. Today had two big climbs which I got up in a slow steady pace. At mile mark 25 I found a good cafe for breakfast of home fries, toast and eggs. Upon exiting the cafe a group of 4 women cyclist (50's from Quebec) rolled in and we talked abouttheir trip which started in Vancouver BC. The ride to Nipigon was along the shore and blessed with a stiff tailwind. Had a good Subway Hoggie, chips and ice cream- I'm feeling fine and it's 2:00pm. With only 10 miles to Red Rock (my designation for the day) I decide it would be good to put a few more miles in, since tomorrow is suppose to rain. Using the inernet and guide book I find Eagle Adventures. They are located next to Ouimet Camyon which suppose to be pretty spectacular. Only 25 extra miles- I figure I can ride until 6:00pm if I need. I get to the turnoff and the sign says 3 miles to Valley road - I get Valley road sign say 5 mile to Eagle Adventures and the road is dirt- great now what?!! So I commit and start down the road and about a mile from the entry this couple stop and tell me the me gate closed at 6:00pm. Hummm seems weird they would lock a campground at 6:00pm ( it is now 6:30pm). I decide ok I'll slide around the gate, camp and pay in the morning - I pedal on! I arrive at the gate which has this nasty sign about trespassing once the gate us closed. I ignore it slide under the gate and proceed up the hill to the CG. As I approach the store , alarms start sounding as if I had broken out of prision!!! The guy comes out and he informs me they dont have camping anymore and I will have to find somewhere else to camp.
Needless to say I felt like Chevy Chase at Wally's World! "what I've just pedaled 80 miles and your closed!"

Anyway the next campground was another 25 miles up the road. I pulled in at 9:00pm just ahead of an evening
thundershower but amazingly enough I enjoyed the day.

I've reach my most northern point in Nipagon and am now heading SW toward Diluth.

Jeff Reaves
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Wild Blueberries

Day is starting well - made 1st of two climbs today and found wild blueberries! No bears.

Agustabon Gorge and falls

Your move Rick!

A cool dip in Lake Michigan (with beer$

Campsite is right on the lake!

Day 5 to Rossport - 75 miles

It was a good day even with the hassling emails from Rick Myers showing off the waterfalls in Oregon and his ride around Lemola Pond!
The day was forecast for rain and I mentally had prepared for a somewhat wet day. But the clouds parted and blessed me with temps in the high 70's and an rare 10mph east wind. Today also had me returning to the lakeshore which brought beautiful views to distant islands in Lake Superior. Also today marks northern most shores Superior and tomorrow I will reach my furthest point north before heading down to Thunder Bay.
Meet some fun folks today and my 1st recumbent rider if the trip. Murray Skelton is from Trononto and started his trip in Vancouver. Chatted for quite awhile - his trip had him abandon his pull along trailer and exchange the wheels with those on this bike because of failed bike rims. Hard to leave a $250 trailer on the side of the with gear that you can't fit on your bike.

Last night I had Wayne the "Chip Truck Driver" visit me with his two boys 4 and 8 years old. They are locals in Marathon and for fun drive thru the campground. Needless to say not much happening in Marathon. Anyway he gave lots of information about moose, bears and timber wolves. He said I'd see lots if moose today - well I saw zero. His information that timber wolves and black bears won't bother you in not valid!

End of day took a nice dip in Superior- ohh it's cold! Hoping for a clear night of stars. Who knows I might even see the lights if the Bocci Ball Court at Torch Lake!

Jeff Reaves
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Camp in Marathon

Penn Lake Campground

Road leading to largest gold mine in North America.

Day 4 - 60 miles and wet

What a difference 24 hours can make! Yesterday was hot and sunny. Today the morning started cool and cloudy but 10 miles out of White River the sky's opened up with blinding rain, thunder and lighting. Conditions stayed that way until the 40 mile mark. The day ended cool and comfy. Riding ended at 2:00pm , a real break from the normal 6 pm time.

Jeff Reaves
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Day 3 - late post.

After the hot day, I was definitely in need of a shower. The only option was Husky Truck Stop. Shower was great and they let pitch my tent in back at no cost! Had diner at truckstop resturant with Jaun another cyclist from Quebec who at 60 was fulfilling his dream to cycle across Canada. Jaun spoke broken english and I spoke broken Candian- "aye". After long day on the bike and a good diner I bedded down at 9:00 pm to a sound sleep. At 1:30 am I was startled with a loud siren righy outside my tent. Not knowing what it meant and thinking killer tornado!!! , I got up to find out what was happening. Come find out I was sleeping under volunteer fire department sirens. The blast was for a fire - where or what I don't know but next free campsite will get a little more scrutiny.

Jeff Reaves
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Inukshuk - little man

These are along the roadway from Wawa to White River

Wawa landmark

Wawa translates to "goose". This goose was built to commemorate the completion of the Trans Canada Highway (route 17)

Day 3- 85 miles and 100 degrees

Today was hot hot but easier than yesterday's hills and heat. Got the major hills out of the way early and rolled into Wawa for breakfast at 11:00am. Headed inland from Wawa to White River 60 miles away. Had a good tail wind until the last 20 miles when mother nature decided the heat was not enough and gave me a headwind. Struggled into White River but after a rootbeer float and two beers - I'm feeling better.

Jeff Reaves
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Old Woman Bay

Alot like Oregon Capes with no Salt!

Canoe and Mishipeshu

The Great Lynx spirit of the lake.
Images are 400 years old.

Location of Pictographs

Does this mean slippery road when stars are out.

It's definitely dark at night. The stars are amazing.

Day 2 - 85 miles and 10 hours

Up and on the road by 8:30am. Road along the lake was rolling and made it to Montreal River for breakfast/lunch. Ate at shack - reminded me if Peru! But food was good - run by an old hippie guy. Leaving Montreal river right out the driveway was a hard winding climb. And they continued all day long! Crawled into camp around 7:00pm. Showered, ate and slept well.
The scenery was worth the effort, great vistas and shore line along the way. Agawa Rock Pictograps and Old Woman Bay were the highlight of the Lake Superior Provincial Park.

Jeff Reaves
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Pancake Bay

Moose hunting season

Day one - 60 miles, 7 hr ride.

The day started slow, with a repack to reduce the LOAD. Then Jeannie and I visited the Soo Lock that separates Superior from Ontario lake. Got to see two large ships navigate the Lock. Got the bike on the ground by 10:30am and rolled out of USA across the St Mary's River into Canada. The bridge was long and narrow and reminded me of the Astoria Bridge on the Oregon coast. Hard to get out of town but finally made it to the rural section of HWY 17 which I will follow into 650 km into Thunder Bay, from my camp spot at Pancake Bay. HWY 17 has moderate traffic with cars and trucks. The shoulder varies from 4 ft to zero (mostly no shoulder). Pancake Bay and Batchawana Bay have long sandy beaches and supposedly warmest water in Lake Superior. Biggest surprises today:
The US dollar is worth less than the Canadian dollar.
All the women talk like Sharah Pallin.
There is alot of wilderness in this neck of the woods.

Jeff Reaves
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Overall View of the Lakes

Nasa View of the lake

Route of the ride

Start of Circle Tour around Lake Superior

Bike Trip Start- Wednesday August 3rd!  Physically ready for the ride and bike is ready to go!  Last night to enjoy Torch lake and the comforts of the cabin.  I will try to post everyday, but my excursion into Ontario Canada may not allow me to stay in constant contact.